Types in Indian jewelry

Sometimes used as a security in times of contingency…. sometimes as an ornament worth flaunting, the tradition of adorning oneself with jewelry has rather become more vigorous with time. Artisans and goldsmiths were once patronized by their rulers for carving exclusive pieces of jewelry… today, this art of carving jewelry has improvised with better techniques and designs and open for all.

Heavy jewelry in Gold has so far been the traditional favorite of Indian women, but, with the time, new fashion has seeped in, for better I’d say. Gemstones encrusted in Platinum, silver and other metals are quite in today. In fact, this versatility in jewelry is not observed in the fashion norms, but, also observed in different regions and states of India. What is popular in one state, may not be worn in the other.

This article is a guiding tour to acquaint you with different styles and traditions observed in jewelry in India.

Jadau Work:

This one-of-its-kind work is a major example of traditional Indian beauty. Introduced by Mughals, this art form is predominantly prevalent in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat.

Jadau jewelry is made with precious and semi-precious stones engraved in Gold, wherein, it is first mildly melted to a pliable state, then, stones are engraved in it with great precision. After the Gold cools, the stones get fixed on it without any adhesive.

Jadau jewelry, a great example of indigenous skills is gifted to women in marriages and other auspicious ceremonies. Jadau is a team work, which involves the making of the basic design, then, engraving of stones and making holes, and last, enameling. Utmost attention is given on the detailing of the stones and enameling.

Kundan Work:

Kundan kari reached Rajasthan during the Mughal rule, wherein it grew and improvised… today, Rajasthan is a hub of Kudan Kari. Huge, elaborate pieces of Kundan Kari jewelry worn by the Mughal queens, is basically stone engraved on one side of gold jewelry and meenakari ( enameling) on the opposite side.

Kundan Kari is a skillful play of setting gems. First, the holes are cut for the gems, then they are engraved with utmost precision and then, the pieces are enameled. The core of the ornament is made out of lac, a natural resin. Later, lac is inserted into the hollow parts and is then visible from the front, through the holes left for the gems. Highly refined gold or kundan is used to cover the lac and gems are then pushed into the kundan.

 Lac Jewelry:

Originating from Rajasthan, Lac Jewelry has gained considerable amount of popularity in India. Besides necklaces, one cant forget to mention the famous Lac bangles worn as a style statement by the youths of today.

The process of making lac jewelry is complex. Glass beads, flower shaped mirrors and decorative wire are also used for the enhancement of beauty of the jewelry. The bangles of lac consist of an inner-core that has a covering of thin layer of superior quality lac. Core lac, when mixed with a material similar to white clay, strengthens the bangle. The heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding of the parched ingredients takes place repeatedly and dough like mass is formed.

Once this mass is heated, it is shaped further and the expansion of the lac takes place in lieu of bargained diameter. This results in thickening of bangle. Further, a tool (flat-shaped) is used to roll the bangle across the flat surface, which gives it a proper thickness. The shaping is done by suppressing the length of lac into grooves (colored) on every side of the mould. The lac takes the shape of the groove into which it is forced. This process, which requires great precision, produces the most beautiful pieces of jewelry.

Meenakari Jewlery:

Introduced in Rajasthan, this art work is considered the most exquisite among the all types. In Meenakari jewelry, precious stones are set  and then enameled with gold. The metal piece on which the work is to be done, is fixed on the lac stick. Then, designs of flowers, birds and fish are engraved on it.

The beauty of the Meenakari Jewlery predominantly depends on the choice of colours used. The beautiful combinations of turquoise blue with gold and red with gold are most seen.

Navratna Jewelry:

In Navratna jewelry, nine auspicious stones are used in a single ornament. The belief behind this is that the nine stones together ensure well being of the person who wears it. In India, Navratna jewelry has been given major importance, because of its astrological significance as well as its innate charm. The nine stones used in the jewelry diamond, ruby, emerald, coral, pearl, sapphire, garnet, topaz, and cat's eye. As it is believed in astrology, each planet watches over one of the nine gems and offer power.

Pachchikam Jewelry

Popular for its crude look, Panchchikam Jewelry is quite a delight among Gujaratis. Here silver is used as a base metal for its malleability. So, after the silver is melted, stones including glass and precious are engraved into the holes and is carved into a beautiful shape.

The art of making Pachchikam jewelry is a traditional art form of people in Gujarat who love to adorn themselves in beautiful pachchikam necklace, bangles and anklets.